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post #3091 of 3101 Old 12-25-2018, 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by TitusTroy View Post
I'm still confused about two things with the C7...I've read many posts with differing opinions on this...right now I have Sharpness set to 10 across all modes and Edge Enhancer turned ON for all modes...is there a definitive answer to this:

1) what should Sharpness be set to?...meaning what is the best setting is with no additional Sharpness added to the image...normally the answer would be 0 (zero) but many people on here have stated to keep it at 10 because anything below 10 softens the image...even a well known calibrator on here stated to keep it at 10 ( @jrref )...is 10 the correct setting?

2) Edge Enhancer...this is another one giving me a headache...earlier in this thread some people tested this and stated that Edge Enhancer OFF disables the Sharpness control and Edge Enhancer ON enables the Sharpness control...somebody tested it with all the Picture Modes and stated the following: "Set Sharpness to 0 and then switch back and forth between Edge Enhancer ON/OFF and you'll see no change to the picture. Next, max out Sharpness to 50. Now switch back and forth between Edge Enhancer ON/OFF. You'll see a normal unsharpened image with OFF and ugly sharpening with ON. If you want to bypass artificial sharpening, keep Edge Enhancer OFF"

the 2nd question goes hand in hand with my first question about Sharpness...so if I set Sharpness to 10 and disable EE then that means that my Sharpness setting of 10 will not be recognized...I hope some of the experts on here can give me a definitive answer to these questions...thanks!
Hi, use a sharpness pattern and test the settings, its very easy to find out what is happening.

LG has informed about this recommendation: ''The ‘Edge Enhancer’ setting in the Expert Picture Mode Settings does not increase sharpness; the default ‘On’ setting is a bypass function, and is therefore recommended''

Probably LG want to say that in Expert mode this setting is not working, so even if you set it to OK, that enhancement (which amplifies the high-frequency components of a signal) processing is bypassed. I haven't checked if it makes any difference (On/Off) to other modes.

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post #3092 of 3101 Old 12-25-2018, 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Megalith View Post
Can anyone comment on what the most accurate correction file is for DisplayCal?
Hi, There is a CCSS LG OLED 2017 spectral correction table for i1Display PRO instrument users, it will work from ColorMunki Display also. (both meters can read spectral corrections).

But when you are using CCSS correction, you assume that the internal spectral data of X-Rite meter from the factory hasn't drifted, since the internal meter spectra + CCSS spectra data are used to create a correction matrix.

Don't use any other user CCMX file for LG OLED, it will not work, only if you have your own meters combo (colorimeter+spectro) for creating a matrix based correction (CCMX = Colorimeter Correction Matrix) which will be only valid for your current meters/display.

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post #3093 of 3101 Old 12-25-2018, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by ConnecTEDDD View Post
Hi, There is a CCSS LG OLED 2017 spectral correction table for i1Display PRO instrument users, it will work from ColorMunki Display also. (both meters can read spectral corrections).

But when you are using CCSS correction, you assume that the internal spectral data of X-Rite meter from the factory hasn't drifted, since the internal meter spectra + CCSS spectra data are used to create a correction matrix.

Don't use any other user CCMX file for LG OLED, it will not work, only if you have your own meters combo (colorimeter+spectro) for creating a matrix based correction (CCMX = Colorimeter Correction Matrix) which will be only valid for your current meters/display.
Just so I'm clear, are you talking about the WRGB_OLED_LG.ccss that is included with HCFR? I used that last week and am pretty happy with the results.
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post #3094 of 3101 Old 12-25-2018, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by ConnecTEDDD View Post
When you are applying such large adjustments with LG CMS, always use a color ramp pattern to validate for issues.

A good way of testing what is happening with CMS adjustments enabled/disabled, is to copy paste all your ISF-Dark settings to ISF-Bright, including all 2/20-Point RGB balance but not copy CMS settings. Then using TV remote swap between the 2 picture modes while you will display some color ramp patterns to see if the picture mode with CMS adjustments is adding banding/false contouring/clipping or other issues.

Thanks for that useful tip. Where can I get the colour ramp patterns from. I am using HCFR with AVCHD709 patterns in MP4 on USB stick.
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post #3095 of 3101 Old 12-25-2018, 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Terry B View Post
Thanks for that useful tip. Where can I get the colour ramp patterns from. I am using HCFR with AVCHD709 patterns in MP4 on USB stick.
If I remember well, AVSHD has color steps patterns, not color ramps.

http://01900888.com/forum/139-d...l#post56539952

http://01900888.com/forum/139-d...l#post57237412

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post #3096 of 3101 Old 01-11-2019, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by P40L0 View Post
An update for LG 2017 OLEDs - Calibrated Settings for Xbox One X / Gaming:

  • Added V5 - EXPERIMENTAL HDR Game profile tuned for HIGH Dynamic Contrast: it's a totally new proposal for a MUCH brighter HDR (even more bright than HDR Technicolor with Active HDR) trying also to eredicate most of HIGH DC negative effects and be as accurate as possible at the same time. FEEDBACK IS WELCOMED

To eliminate/compensate HIGH Dynamic Contrast negative effects on PQ:

EDIT (14/12/2018):
  • Raised Brightness from 50 to 53: this will fix most introduced black crush, while some will remain very slightly. It's the highest value that can be set before loosing "perfect blacks" of OLEDs;
  • Color Gamut set from Auto to WIDE + Color 44: when DC is set to High, I noticed that Auto color gamut will suddenly show wrong/muted colors (especially muted oranges/yellows and magenta) and all of them become undersaturated. Switching to WIDE made oranges/yellows back to normal, and considering WIDE is oversaturated with same settings compared to Auto, setting its Color to 44 gave back a very comparable accuracy to Technicolor
  • Color Temperature is back to W50

I'm very impressed by far with this new experiment, as I was able to achieve an even brighter image than HDR Technicolor with Active HDR, but with no highlights clipping (typical of PC HDR Standard) and mostly accurate colors. The only visible downside is a very very slight black crush, that can not be fixed without losing also perfect blacks, but it's not bad at all.

Both Battlefield V and Forza Horizon 4 look mind blowing with this new setup, but any FEEDBACK to further improve it is always welcomed.

Give it a spin and let me know what you think
Can I use your settings with Apple TV or Nvidia Shield source? Thank you for sharing!
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post #3097 of 3101 Old 01-13-2019, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by MrFlooD View Post
When performing the 2 point HDR calibration. What are the recommend points? Is it still 30 & 80 like SDR?
Bump

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post #3098 of 3101 Old 01-13-2019, 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Tucker Smash View Post
Bump

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For SDR only 100 High then 20 points. For HDR I do 100/30. Only subtract.

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Last edited by MrRobotoPlus; 01-13-2019 at 04:50 PM.
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post #3099 of 3101 Old 01-16-2019, 01:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Tucker Smash View Post
Bump
100% is 10000nits, the display is already clipping at that level, try to use a lower percentage like 70% (which is 619 nits) or 65% (which is 389 nits) to fix only RGB balance errors or take a full grayscale sweep and then apply the RGB-High adjustments you believe they will reduce your White Balance errors at the top end of your grayscale.

With HDR mode is not a good idea to keep the same pattern (with high luminance) static for real-time adjustments, because the panel's are unstable at HDR10 it's better idea to display the pattern you like to measure and after measuring it... to display a black pattern (or 5/10% Gray) and then open the LG OSD to apply the adjustments you believe they will reduce your errors. (so the panel will cool down).

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post #3100 of 3101 Old 01-16-2019, 06:47 AM
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Originally Posted by ConnecTEDDD View Post
100% is 10000nits, the display is already clipping at that level, try to use a lower percentage like 70% (which is 619 nits) or 65% (which is 389 nits) to fix only RGB balance errors or take a full grayscale sweep and then apply the RGB-High adjustments you believe they will reduce your White Balance errors at the top end of your grayscale.

With HDR mode is not a good idea to keep the same pattern (with high luminance) static for real-time adjustments, because the panel's are unstable at HDR10 it's better idea to display the pattern you like to measure and after measuring it... to display a black pattern (or 5/10% Gray) and then open the LG OSD to apply the adjustments you believe they will reduce your errors. (so the panel will cool down).
So you're recommending a 70/30 point rgb adjustment?

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post #3101 of 3101 Old 01-17-2019, 04:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Tucker Smash View Post
So you're recommending a 70/30 point rgb adjustment?
You can test and see what way works better with your display, but always check color reproduction patterns and real content, because large adjustments can introduce issues.

If 70%/30% or 70% only or 65% only works, post your results of the method you followed.

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