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post #1 of 43 Old 06-01-2011, 02:43 PM - Thread Starter
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This build got my attention:

http://www.hometheatershack.com/foru...king-200l.html

Today I emailed Funky Waves about just building the enclosure. The goal is to reach an in room response of about 115db at 20hz. For reference, currently my DD-18 can do about 103-104db at 20hz from my seat 13ft away.

My questions to the DIY guru's:

1. Will 2,000w RMS be enough, or can this driver handle more than what's listed? If 2,000w is all it can handle, would the ep2500/ep4000 be enough since that what they were tested at 4ohm to produce?
2. Say Funky Waves can make the same enclosure, but a little larger. Will that aid output? I think something along the lines of 35 tall, by 25 wide, by 27 long is about as large as I could fit.

Thanks in advance!

 

 

 

UPDATE:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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post #2 of 43 Old 06-01-2011, 03:14 PM
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35x25x27 is about 300l after bracing and drivers. Making the enclosure larger will give you more spl in the lower freq.

200l vs 300l, same tune and watts.
Attachment 213655
LL

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post #3 of 43 Old 06-02-2011, 08:14 AM - Thread Starter
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I might have the option to get a used Peavey CS 4080hz.

Say I end up with two of these LMS boxes, would this adequately power these subs? It's rated at about 2k RMS at 4ohm per channel.
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post #4 of 43 Old 06-03-2011, 10:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lukeamdman View Post

I might have the option to get a used Peavey CS 4080hz.

Say I end up with two of these LMS boxes, would this adequately power these subs? It's rated at about 2k RMS at 4ohm per channel.

It should adequately power one of the LMS5400s. The only amp that I am aware of thought strong enough to power a pair of those drivers:
http://labgruppen.com/products/fp_pl...es/c/fp_14000/
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post #5 of 43 Old 06-05-2011, 12:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Two more questions:

1. How many pounds of acousta-stuf should I use? The box is going to be about 200l, smaller than originally planned.

2. Would it be better to run the amp in 4ohm stereo, or should I wire the two boxes in a series for an 8ohm bridge? It's going to be a Peavey CS 4080hz.


Thanks!
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post #6 of 43 Old 06-05-2011, 01:07 PM
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Most people I've seen line the walls in a vented enclosure.

http://www.glasswolf.net/papers/polyfill.html

Quote:


I also found that stuffing gets less effective as box size increases. The morale: The bigger your box is, the harder it is to fool your woofer.


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post #7 of 43 Old 06-13-2011, 09:53 AM - Thread Starter
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I’m in the process of making the box myself. Final outside dimensions are 24” x 24” x 32.5”. Used 3/4" Baltic birch, and the baffles are doubled up to 1.5”.

How do I know how many washers to add to tune the VMP’s? Anything between 15 and 20hz is fine.

Thanks!
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post #8 of 43 Old 06-13-2011, 10:38 AM
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What is the room size....?

If the room is not huge, you may be able to get away with an amp that will put out 2000w per channel @ 4ohms...

Heck, TJHUB just upgraded to twin sealed LMS's in a 6500^3 room and is now running a pair of EP4000's, 1 for each... Up until then it was my extra Crest 8002 which was a trial amp running about the same power per channel...

PR should allow you to utilize less power and get more output.
a 4000w amp per driver in theory should only yield you an extra 3db each.
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post #9 of 43 Old 06-13-2011, 09:07 PM
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I have a LMS ultra5400 with dual vmp radiators. It was running on an ep4000 and sounded good, but it is in my living room and pretty much open to the whole house. I have one of the LG clone amps on order. This should give everything the driver will handle and more and give me an excuse to get another lms/vmp next year.
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post #10 of 43 Old 06-14-2011, 08:57 AM - Thread Starter
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How do I know how many washers to add to tune the VMP’s? I'm looking for something around 15/16hz.

Final outside dimensions are 24” x 24” x 32.5”.

Thanks!
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post #11 of 43 Old 06-14-2011, 09:20 AM
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Try 11 washers per VMP, that should be in your range. Measure the tuning with test tones very carefully ( I would start at low power below your tuning point ), where excursion is high, moving up 1 hz at a time to see where the active driver barely moves.

Welcome my son, welcome to the machine.
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post #12 of 43 Old 06-14-2011, 10:36 AM - Thread Starter
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Michael,

Thanks for that info!

What does that mean when the active driver barely moves to a specific frequency? If you could elaborate on that I would appreciate it!
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post #13 of 43 Old 06-14-2011, 11:34 AM
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At tuning, the passives are moving, but the active woofer is barely moving at all. Above tuning, the passive motion decreases and the active woofer starts moving more.

I would start with say a 10 hz tone at low volume, but enough so that the woofer is moving say 1/2 inch p-p. Increase the frequency of the tone in 1 hz increments, when you have found the point where the active driver is barely moving, that is the tuning frequency.

Frequencies on either side will have the woofer moving more.

Welcome my son, welcome to the machine.
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post #14 of 43 Old 06-14-2011, 11:42 AM - Thread Starter
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post #15 of 43 Old 06-14-2011, 11:58 AM
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BTW, taking 5 washers off of my VMP's in a 7~ cu ft box raised tuning about 2.5 hz or thereabouts.

Welcome my son, welcome to the machine.
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post #16 of 43 Old 06-14-2011, 12:17 PM - Thread Starter
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post #17 of 43 Old 06-14-2011, 12:28 PM
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I would measure it for you, but I am a long way away from home. ( 15 + hour drive ) Here's a picture of it in paint prep stage though.
LL

Welcome my son, welcome to the machine.
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post #18 of 43 Old 06-14-2011, 12:35 PM - Thread Starter
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That box looks like it has similar dimensions to mine.

I take it that in that picture you're working on a side where a PR goes, and the front of the enclosure is face down?
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post #19 of 43 Old 06-14-2011, 01:21 PM
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Yes, that is correct.

Welcome my son, welcome to the machine.
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post #20 of 43 Old 06-16-2011, 09:24 AM - Thread Starter
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Got the driver and PR's yesterday.

Very unimpressed that the washers and nut are just thrown in the box and not secured or tied down in any way. Both PR's have minor dents in the cones from the washers hitting them...
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post #21 of 43 Old 06-16-2011, 09:53 AM
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post #22 of 43 Old 06-16-2011, 11:26 AM
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Not cool


Definitely. One piece of tape......

I'm seeing a lack of caring in many fields lately. Too bad.
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post #23 of 43 Old 06-16-2011, 11:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lukeamdman View Post

Got the driver and PR's yesterday.

Very unimpressed that the washers and nut are just thrown in the box and not secured or tied down in any way. Both PR's have minor dents in the cones from the washers hitting them...

That kind of thing really annoys me.

I hope you're sending them back. And perhaps getting the volume displacement equivalent in the flat-piston 15" PR's that PE sells instead, which should be considerably lower cost.

TC and PE really need to get their act together on the TC product. Considering the prices they charge - almost $300 for a PR, and $900+ for a top-line woofer! - the packaging should be way better. I'm thinking custom styrofoam clamshell with recess for the washers, a la Aurasound. Or at least a very well-formed support structure, with special pockets for the loose stuff, a la JBL's packaging of their GTi subs.

Products of that size and that potential performance simply demand best practices packaging. If Aurasound, JBL, JL Audio, and others can consistently design packaging for their premium products that protects them in shipping, there's no excuse for TC not to do so as well.

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post #24 of 43 Old 06-16-2011, 12:21 PM - Thread Starter
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One of the PR's only has one dent, and you can only see if when the light is right, but I noticed it right away.

The other one...THREE washers somehow worked their way inside the plastic bag the PR is in, and it has 3-4 dents. One of the dents is on the backside of the cone, and it actually chipped a small piece of the finish off the cone!

For $900 I expected a little more QC around the driver as well. The glue is sloppy and most of the VC is covered in some black stuff. I think it's from the glue they used for the spider.
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post #25 of 43 Old 06-16-2011, 11:30 PM
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I would return the passives, you pay good money for them, get a replacement pair from Parts Express. This is not the first I have heard of QC issues since they are handling the distribution.

Welcome my son, welcome to the machine.
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post #26 of 43 Old 06-17-2011, 12:05 AM
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wow, looks like I ordered mine right before the QC went to hell. It seems every time someone orders TC gear from PE its screwed up now. Either that or I just got lucky.
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post #27 of 43 Old 06-17-2011, 01:16 AM
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Just return in, PE is really good about that, and some extra tape or something will have to be used to prevent this in the future.

DS-21, Polystyrene ??? goodness! TC drivers come completely encased in polyurethane... big difference dude.

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post #28 of 43 Old 06-21-2011, 08:40 AM - Thread Starter
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I thought I would post some pictures of my progress. Now, keep in mind I've never done anything like this before nor did I even have the tools. I've been buying alot of things at Home Depot lately =) I did have a 10" radial arm saw my dad gave me, so I guess the first thing I made was the bench to set that on.







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post #29 of 43 Old 06-21-2011, 10:53 AM
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Looks really good - but I'm also new with this - and I'm wondering - are you working on the base of some kind of schematics or guidelines?

Looking forward to following your progress.

Good luck
Svendsen

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post #30 of 43 Old 06-21-2011, 11:06 AM - Thread Starter
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All I really have to follow were the first few pictures in this link:

http://www.hometheatershack.com/foru...king-200l.html

I just kinda made a guess as to the dimensions and cross bracing.
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