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post #1 of 15 Old 01-06-2019, 07:29 PM - Thread Starter
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Last little bit for my 2 channel system...

When I got my living room renovated, it was rewired. That last electrical contractor didnt do a good job as the lights in my living room will dim when I turn on my amplifier. Ive got a new contractor coming in and he going to fix the problem, run speaker cables in the walls and install some new outlets.

As long as the job's getting done, I didnt see any harm paying 5 extra bucks for this



Compared to the Levitons that are going to be installed, this bad boy is built like a tank. The bronze hardware is pretty impressive and you can feel it in the weight of the unit too.

I've done as much as I feel is reasonable to this system, maybe a little more, and am pretty happy with the end product. Stoked.

Last edited by bing!; 01-07-2019 at 08:54 AM.
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post #2 of 15 Old 01-07-2019, 05:32 AM
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post #3 of 15 Old 01-07-2019, 06:24 AM
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I don't think your problem is the quality of your outlet. Hard-wired lights shouldn't be on the same circuit as receptacles. How much power does your system draw? Unless the wiring is very long, a 1000 watt amp shouldn't cause a voltage drop sufficient to be noticeable. I would suggest your new contractor run 12 Ga wires from a separate 20 Amp breaker, and don't put anything else significant on that circuit.
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post #4 of 15 Old 01-07-2019, 08:53 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MTVhike View Post
I don't think your problem is the quality of your outlet. Hard-wired lights shouldn't be on the same circuit as receptacles. How much power does your system draw? Unless the wiring is very long, a 1000 watt amp shouldn't cause a voltage drop sufficient to be noticeable. I would suggest your new contractor run 12 Ga wires from a separate 20 Amp breaker, and don't put anything else significant on that circuit.
Yeah, that's what I said above. The new contractor is fixing it, and I am installing a new outlet for my rig while he is at it.
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post #5 of 15 Old 01-07-2019, 10:42 AM
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Even better, put an ultra line noise isolator at the breaker. xD
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post #6 of 15 Old 01-12-2019, 12:32 PM
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If you are having an electrical contractor come in, then have them install a dedicated circuit (20A) just for the Audio Electrical Plug Ins. Nothing should share the circuit with the Amps and other audio equipment.

How complex doing that will be will depend on the specific room. But a Dedicated Audio Electrical Circuit is the best possible choice.

If you want to use the PANGEA Outlets that is up to you, but absolute minimum use Hospital/Commercial/Industrial Grade Outlets. The ultra cheap $0.70 outlets from Walmart are not going to cut it.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-...42-I/301361341

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-...-SGW/301361113

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-...20-W/202066696


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Last edited by bluewizard; 01-12-2019 at 04:41 PM.
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post #7 of 15 Old 01-12-2019, 01:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bluewizard View Post
If you are having an electrical contractor come in, then have then install a dedicated circuit (20A) just for the Audio Electrical Plug Ins. Nothing should share the circuit with the Amps and other audio equipment.

How complex doing that will be will depend on the specific room. But a Dedicated Audio Electrical Circuit is the best possible choice.

If you want to use the PANGEA Outlets that is up to you, but absolute minimum use Hospital/Commercial/Industrial Grade Outlets. The ultra cheap $0.70 outlets from Walmart are not going to cut it.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-...42-I/301361341

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-...-SGW/301361113

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-...20-W/202066696


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Ive done my research and found the Pangea unit to but just that, a hospital grade unit with just a little bit more specs added by Pangea to sell it under their brand.
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post #8 of 15 Old 01-12-2019, 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by bing! View Post
Ive done my research and found the Pangea unit to but just that, a hospital grade unit with just a little bit more specs added by Pangea to sell it under their brand.
Pangea makes a range of outlets for very reasonably price to a bit on the excessive side -

http://www.audioadvisor.com/ssearch...ngea+ac+outlet

Notice I said MINIMUM Hospital/Commercial/Industrial Grade Outlets.

The key to eliminating interaction with other circuits in the house, is to have a dedicated circuit just for AUDIO.

Let's us know what you decide and how it works out?

Steve/bluewizard
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post #9 of 15 Old 01-12-2019, 05:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluewizard View Post
Pangea makes a range of outlets for very reasonably price to a bit on the excessive side -

http://www.audioadvisor.com/ssearch...ngea+ac+outlet

Notice I said MINIMUM Hospital/Commercial/Industrial Grade Outlets.

The key to eliminating interaction with other circuits in the house, is to have a dedicated circuit just for AUDIO.

Let's us know what you decide and how it works out?

Steve/bluewizard
Is it incorrect to say things like dimmers and solar panels, compressor switching etc, effect every circuit in the house? This is the reason I like suggesting ultra line noise isolators, in addition to the high common mode noise reduction, traverse mode noise reduction, filterless surge protection, and providing a low impedenance filterless connection between chained audio components.
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post #10 of 15 Old 01-12-2019, 07:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluewizard View Post
Pangea makes a range of outlets for very reasonably price to a bit on the excessive side -

http://www.audioadvisor.com/ssearch...ngea+ac+outlet

Notice I said MINIMUM Hospital/Commercial/Industrial Grade Outlets.

The key to eliminating interaction with other circuits in the house, is to have a dedicated circuit just for AUDIO.

Let's us know what you decide and how it works out?

Steve/bluewizard
Yeah, the great part about those 3, is all of them have a cut view of what's inside. I'm cool with the low end model. It's got the hardware I was wanting.

I wont have a dedicated circuit, but I will have a living outlet dedicate circuit. I'll be sharing it with a security camera, a fake fireplace and an occasional charging phone or laptop.

I think it'll be ok.
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post #11 of 15 Old 01-12-2019, 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by bing! View Post
Yeah, the great part about those 3, is all of them have a cut view of what's inside. I'm cool with the low end model. It's got the hardware I was wanting.

I wont have a dedicated circuit, but I will have a living outlet dedicate circuit. I'll be sharing it with a security camera, a fake fireplace and an occasional charging phone or laptop.

I think it'll be ok.
The fake fireplace is a potential problem especially if it has a heater in it. When high current devices like Space Heaters, Refrigerators, Air Conditioners, and similar kick on and off, the can send a transient into the line, which in theory could be heard as a click or a thud in your audio system. But those are unlikely to be the cause of Buzz or Hum.

The ideal solution is a dedicated Electrical Circuit, though admittedly that is not always practical or possible. But it is still ideal.

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post #12 of 15 Old 01-12-2019, 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by bdht View Post
Is it incorrect to say things like dimmers and solar panels, compressor switching etc, effect every circuit in the house? This is the reason I like suggesting ultra line noise isolators, in addition to the high common mode noise reduction, traverse mode noise reduction, filterless surge protection, and providing a low impedenance filterless connection between chained audio components.
Then it is a good thing I never said that. Still you have a point. Rarely will anything cause a Hum or a Buzz if things are working properly. But many high current devices can cause a thud or click when they turn on and off. Though again, that shouldn't happen if everything is working and wired correctly. And I think, though I'm a bit foggy on this one, a shorting capacitor can be shunted across the Motor/Compressor Terminals to absorb that Thud or Click without effecting the operation of the Motor itself.

Various type of noise suppressor and transient suppressor, as well as RF/EMF Filters, can be of benefit if the situation calls for it. I've never needed them, but that doesn't mean someone might not need them.

Steve/bluewizard
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post #13 of 15 Old 01-13-2019, 10:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bluewizard View Post
The fake fireplace is a potential problem especially if it has a heater in it. When high current devices like Space Heaters, Refrigerators, Air Conditioners, and similar kick on and off, the can send a transient into the line, which in theory could be heard as a click or a thud in your audio system. But those are unlikely to be the cause of Buzz or Hum.

The ideal solution is a dedicated Electrical Circuit, though admittedly that is not always practical or possible. But it is still ideal.

Steve/bluewizard
Fake fireplace is a light show, provided by LEDs, no heating
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post #14 of 15 Old 01-13-2019, 11:38 AM
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I guess that depends on your interpretation of "fake". There are gas and electric "fake" fireplaces that not only provide a light show, but also provide heat.



If you can’t explain it simply, you don’t understand it well enough – Albert Einstein
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post #15 of 15 Old 01-13-2019, 12:05 PM
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Have your electrician install dedicated outlets for your hifi. Straight from a well grounded fuse box.

Jolida Fusion Preamp, Jolida JD1000P Amp, VPI Scout turntable with Dynavector 10X5 cartridge, Paradigm Studio 100 v.5 speakers, Sonica DAC streaming lossless files. Furman Elite 15 Power Conditioner.
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