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post #31 of 93 Old 09-24-2018, 08:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by budh9534 View Post
BINGO! I didn't notice that WNIT-PBS 34.1 in South Bend has a 34.2 channel - but it does NOT have a third 34.3 channel.


WBND-ABC in South Bend has a PSIP of 57.1, but broadcasts on physical channel 34.


Imagine my surprise to find a displayed mystery channel 34.3 which should not be there....but it IS the 57.1 WBND that broadcasts on physical 34.

Could the broadcasters and FCC have made this whole situation any more confusing and complicated for the average OTA end user? Not sure exactly how. I feel sorry for manufacturers of TV tuners and/or OTA set top boxes who have to work with this mess.
Wait for ATSC 3.0 when it will get even crazier.
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post #32 of 93 Old 09-24-2018, 06:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Tripod mounting on top of roof - question on type and dimensions

I purchased a Skywalker Signature Series 5 ft Heavy Duty Tripod (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) because it had three points of contact with my expected 8-foot mast. I've had it almost a month and only today did I look into installing it on the roof, now that I know exactly where I want it located.

Unfortunately, geometry got in the way, and a large part of that is that none of the legs are adjustable in length.

When the tripod legs are fully spread, there is 28 inches between the feet. The rafters supporting my roof are 16 inches apart (which is very common). If the legs spread far enough so there was 32 inches between the feet, it would be easy - two points of contact 32 inches apart above two different rafters one side of the peak, and the third point of contact on the other side of the peak at the rafter in between the first two.

But it's only 28 inches. Only if I brought the legs together (making it less stable) could I reduce it to 16 inches and then I could get only two feet (both on the same side of the peak) attached at a rafter. But the lone attachment point on the other side of the peak would be half way between rafters and not allowing good support. And being the lone attachment point on that side of the peak ma3kes it worse.

If that third leg could be shortened, I could attach the two long legs to the rafters, one on each side of the peak, and attach the third leg AT the peak. But no dice - all legs are the same length.

Is it reasonable to try using this tripod with only 16 inches between the feet and only two attachment points at a rafter?

Are there any tripods out there with installation much clearer with standard 16-inch rafter separation?



Last edited by budh9534; 11-23-2018 at 07:14 AM.
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post #33 of 93 Old 09-24-2018, 06:30 PM
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Don't change the spacing of the legs. If the sheathing isn't strong enough to fasten the single leg even with an added plywood plate inside, attach a piece of wood inside across the two rafters, which will provide a middle attachment point for the single leg with a long bolt.


DISCLAIMER


I'm not a contractor or an engineer. The final decision is your responsibility.

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post #34 of 93 Old 09-24-2018, 07:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rabbit73 View Post
Don't change the spacing of the legs. If the sheathing isn't strong enough to fasten the single leg even with an added plywood plate inside, attach a piece of wood inside across the two rafters, which will provide a middle attachment point for the single leg with a long bolt.


DISCLAIMER


I'm not a contractor or an engineer. The final decision is your responsibility.
You just made me realize I can spread the legs out the full 28 inches between the feet, rotate the tripod slightly, and have one foot over one rafter and a second foot diagonally on the opposite side of the peak over an adjacent rafter. Then those two feet can be adjusted staying over their associated rafter and probably the third foot, which will NOT be over a rafter can be positioned to keep the mast vertical.

The tough part is how to firmly attach that third foot. If the wind is coming from the direction of the third foot, it will want to be pulled out of the roof which is the danger situation!

Just because I have a master's degree in physics with a minor in mechanical engineering doesn't mean I'm very good at home repair stuff. Especially something like this.

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post #35 of 93 Old 09-25-2018, 08:24 AM
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Another alternative (because I didn't fully understand the problem):

Bolt 2 x 4s against the side of the rafters on the two-leg side to have 28 inch spacing; the 2 x 4s can be spaced out with thinner boards if necessary, or use 4 x 4s. The leg on the other side will match the middle rafter on the other side.

http://www.dennysantennaservice.com/1475651.html

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post #36 of 93 Old 09-25-2018, 08:51 PM
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If my math is correct, maybe this will work:


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post #37 of 93 Old 09-25-2018, 10:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rabbit73 View Post
If my math is correct, maybe this will work:


I appreciate the drawing, with the graph paper accurately depicting the 1.5 inch width of the (16 inch center to center) rafters.

I will be sending back to Amazon my SkyWalker three points of contact to the mast tripod which max'd out at 28 inches between the feet and I ordered yesterday from Solid Signal a Winegard 3 Foot Heavy Duty Galvanized Tripod Antenna Mast Mount (SW-0010) for $24 which presumably is shorter and wider, maxing out at 32 inches so it will hit three consecutive rafters when stradling the peak of the roof.

Bud
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Last edited by budh9534; 11-23-2018 at 07:16 AM.
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post #38 of 93 Old 09-27-2018, 06:45 AM - Thread Starter
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I've tested the TVPRAMP1R RCA Preamplifier with my two antenna setup and it appears to be working as well as the LNA-200 Winegard Boost XT HDTV Preamplifier.

The RCA TVPRAMP1R preamplifier, unlike the LNA-200, has TWO inputs (a "UHF/COMBINED INPUT" and a "VHF SEPARATE INPUT"), and the latter VHF only input will be unused.

1. What should be put on the unused outdoor VHF only connection to protect it from the elements? A "75 ohm terminator" of some kind?

2. Does anyone have an opinion of the Winegard LNA-200 preamp being any better than the RCA TVPRAMP1R?

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post #39 of 93 Old 09-30-2018, 07:47 AM - Thread Starter
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I searched for any information about MOUNTING the Winegard CC-7870 coupler (combiner) but there was little information.

The directions that come with it are almost useless, plus the picture of how to mount it so that the three ports are facing down looks incorrect. Plus the holes don't line up and even if they did, the strength of attachment doesn't seem like it would withstand a stiff wind.

My concern is how to attach the CC-7870 to the bracket. Not the bracket attachment to the mast which seems straightforward.

Has anyone out there installed a CC-7870 on a mast before (successfully) and if so, how?

http://manuals.solidsignal.com/Manual_for_CC7870.pdf

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post #40 of 93 Old 09-30-2018, 08:20 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by budh9534 View Post
I searched for any information about MOUNTING the Winegard CC-7870 coupler (combiner) but there was little information.

The directions that come with it are almost useless, plus the picture of how to mount it so that the three ports are facing down looks incorrect. Plus the holes don't line up and even if they did, the strength of attachment doesn't seem like it would withstand a stiff wind.


My concern is how to attach the CC-7870 to the bracket. Not the bracket attachment to the mast which seems straightforward.


Has anyone out there installed a CC-7800 on a mast before (successfully) and if so, how?

http://manuals.solidsignal.com/Manual_for_CC7870.pdf
LOL - things have gone from bad to worse in mounting the CC-7870. The hardware is made for 1.5 inch maximum masts, but mine is 1 5/8"..........
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post #41 of 93 Old 09-30-2018, 12:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Sometimes cheap stuff works.....

With the mounting problems experienced with the Winegard CC-7870 coupler (combiner), I needed to continue my antenna work (while my wife is gone this weekend), so in preparation of seeing how long the coaxial cable would need to be and where it would be routed, I pointed my two HDB91X antennas at Chicago and South Bend, about 27 inches apart, and used a simple Channel Plus 2532 combiner/splitter with my inexpensive RCA TVPRAMP1R Preamplifier, just to determine where on the mast the combiner and preamp would need to be mounted and to verify my coaxial cable lengths to ensure a drip loop could be used and that tywraps could keep too much tension off the cables.

Then while I had it up there, I did a complete channel scan. WOW! I received all the channels I wanted, plus nearly all had a 5 out of 5 signal strength, and all received at least a 3.

That Chicago 57.1 Daystar still keeps forcing South Bend WBND 57.1 to show up as displayed channel 34.3.

Sometimes inexpensive stuff works as well as other stuff (at least in the short term).

TVFool: http://www.tvfool.com/?option=com_wr...90382bf2639d39

Virtual Station Real Call Sign Network Strength Distance Magnetic
5.1 WMAQ 29.5 NBC5 NBC 5 58.04 266.6
5.2 29.6 COZI COZI TV 5
7.1 WLS 44.1 WLS-HD ABC 5 58.01 266.6
7.2 44.2 LivWell Live Well 5
9.1 WGN 19.3 WGN Independent 5 58.04 266.6
9.2 19.4 Antenna Antenna TV 5
9.3 19.5 This TV This TV 5
9.4 19.6 TBD TBD 5
10.1 WYGN 10.3 WYGN-LD 3ABN 3
11.1 WTTW 47.3 WTTW-HD PBS 5 58.04 266.6
11.2 47.4 PRIME PBS Encore 5
11.3 47.5 Cr-Wo Create/World 5
11.4 47.6 Kids PBS Kids 24/7 5
16.1 WNDU 42.4 WNDU-HD NBC 5 31.9 154.99
16.2 42.5 Antenna Antenna TV 5
20.1 WTTW 47.7 MHz MHz Worldview 5 57.2 267.8
22.1 WSBT 22.3 WSBTCBS CBS 5 31.1 154.6
22.2 22.4 WSBTFOX FOX 5
25.1 WCWW 25.3 WCWW-HD CW 5 33 152
25.2 25.4 START Start TV 5
25.3 25.5 THISTV This TV 5
26.1 WCIU 27.3 Ind Independent 5 58.04 266.6
26.2 27.4 Utoo Independent 5
26.3 27.5 MeTV Me-TV 5
26.4 27.6 H&I Heroes & Icons 5
26.5 27.7 Bounce Bounce TV 5
26.6 27.8 Decades Decades 5
28.1 WSJV 28.3 WSJV-DT Heroes & Icons 5 31.7 152.8
28.2 28.4 WSJV-SD Heroes & Icons 5
32.1 WFLD 31.3 WFLD-DT FOX 5 58.04 266.6
32.2 31.4 Mpvies! Movies! 5
32.3 31.5 Buzzr BUZZR 5
32.4 31.6 Light Light TV 5
34.1 WNIT 35.1 WNIT-HD PBS 5 32.01 152.6
34.2 35.2 WNIT-SD PBS Encore 5
34.3 WBND 57.1 WBND-HD ABC 4
38.1 WCPX 43.3 ION ION 4.5 58.01 266.6
38.2 43.4 qubo Qubo 4.5
38.3 43.5 IONLife ION Life 4.5
38.4 43.6 Shop Infomercials 4.5
38.5 43.7 QVC QVC 4.5
38.6 43.8 HSN HSN 4.5
44.1 WSNS 29.7 WSNS-HD Telemundo 5 58.04 266.6
44.2 29.8 T-XITOS TeleXitos 4
46.1 WHME 48.3 WHME-DT LeSea 5 33.9 151.6
46.2 48.4 ION ION 5
46.3 48.5 LIGHT Grit 5
46.4 48.6 Laff 5
46.5 48.7 Light TV 5
46.6 48.8 HSN 5
48.1 WMEU 32.3 Utoo HD Independent 3 58.04 266.6
48.2 32.4 The Jam Start TV 3
48.3 32.5 CBS2-HD CBS 3
48.4 32.6 DECADES Decades 3
50.1 WPWR 31.7 WPWR-TV MyN/CW 5 58.04 266.6
57.1 WDCI 30.1 Daystar Daystar 3
57.2 WBND 34.4 MeTV Me-TV 4
57.3 WBND 34.5 Movies! Movies! 4
57.1 WBND 34.3 WBND-HD ABC 4 33 152
60.1 WXFT 44.3 WXFT-DT UniMas 5 57.2 267.8
60.2 44.4 ESCAPE Escape 5
60.3 44.5 Quest Quest 5
62.1 WJYS 36.1 WJYS Independent 5 58.01 266.6
62.2 36.2 PRISM-6 Stadium 5
62.3 36.3 PRISM Charge! 5
62.4 36.4 HRTLND Heartland 5
62.5 36.5 PRISM-3 QVC 5
62.6 36.6 PRISM-4 Jewelry TV 5
62.7 36.7 MCTV Religious 5
66.1 WGBO 38.1 WGBO-DT Univision 5 57.2 267.8
66.2 38.2 Laff Laff 5
66.3 38.3 GetTV GetTV 5
66.4 38.4 JUSTICE Justice Network 5
66.5 38.5 Grit Grit 5
69.1 WMYS 33.3 WMYS MyN 5 33 152
69.2 33.4 TELMNDO Telemundo 5
69.3 33.5 DECADES Decades 5

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post #42 of 93 Old 09-30-2018, 12:57 PM
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Thanks for the report, Bud; you are doing very well.

If you can not measure it, you can not improve it.
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post #43 of 93 Old 09-30-2018, 08:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Connecting a 10AWG ground wire to an already in service 4AWG house ground

I appreciate information I've received here and the encouragement. The tripod is finally installed on the roof along with the two antennas, with the final mast installations of combiner and preamp, running and securing coax and ground wire, and running it to the other side of the basement and up to the TV to come.

My next question I think may be silly, but I've spent several hours at Lowe's, Home Depot, and searching Amazon and other websites and cannot find the clamp I need.

The coax and antenna 10AWG braided copper ground wire will enter the basement near the electrical box and only a few feet away is the house 4AWG (or 2AWG) ground wire. I need to connect the antenna 10AWG ground wire to the bare copper 4AWG house ground wire.

But a clamp similar to one in the picture below which can be slipped onto the already in service house ground wire of which another wire (the antenna ground wire) can be attached I cannot find to be able to purchase.

So am I missing something here? Is a clamp that be installed over a 4AWG house ground wire really hard to find? Or are my internet search skills as good as those the guys at Lowe's and Home Depot (who also could not find such a device).


Last edited by budh9534; 11-23-2018 at 07:22 AM.
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post #44 of 93 Old 09-30-2018, 08:32 PM
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^^Good reception report. And those Channel Plus splitters are good in reverse as signal combiners, so the Winegard coupler may not be necessary. As for the TCL TV, you will just have to deal with the PSIP issue for 57.1. If you ever change to Samsung or another brand, you will not have that issue. I used to receive 2 channels labeled 9.1, but one was RF34 and the other RF30 translator. They eventually changed the translator PSIP to 9.9. So Samsung will allow 2 of the same virtual channel numbers although the real channel may be different.
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post #45 of 93 Old 09-30-2018, 08:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by budh9534 View Post
I appreciate information I've received here and the encouragement. The tripod is finally installed on the roof along with the two antennas, with the final mast installations of combiner and preamp, running and securing coax and ground wire, and running it to the other side of the basement and up to the TV to come.

My next question I think may be silly, but I've spent several hours at Lowe's, Home Depot, and searching Amazon and other websites and cannot find the clamp I need.

The coax and antenna 10AWG braided copper ground wire will enter the basement near the electrical box and only a few feet away is the house 4AWG (or 2AWG) ground wire. I need to connect the antenna 10AWG ground wire to the bare copper 4AWG house ground wire.

But a clamp similar to one in the picture below which can be slipped onto the already in service house ground wire of which another wire (the antenna ground wire) can be attached I cannot find to be able to purchase.

So am I missing something here? Is a clamp that be installed over a 4AWG house ground wire really hard to find? Or are my internet search skills as good as those the guys at Lowe's and Home Depot (who also could not find such a device).

Your image doesn't show. There are two devices you can use.

First let me say this: do not disconnect the house ground, even for a moment, to connect your ground wires.

You can use a split bolt (one for each wire) or a newer device called an Erico IBTB which has a lay-in clamp for the house ground wire.










The electrician on PBS This Old House showed how to install an IBTB.

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Last edited by rabbit73; 09-30-2018 at 09:14 PM.
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post #46 of 93 Old 09-30-2018, 09:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rabbit73 View Post
Your image doesn't show. There are two devices you can use.

First let me say this: do not disconnect the house ground, even for a moment, to connect your ground wires.

You can use a split bolt (one for each wire) or a newer device called an Erico IBTB which has a lay-in clamp for the house ground wire.










The electrician on PBS This Old House showed how to install an IBTB.
I just looked up what a "split bolt connector" does and how it works. Unless I'm missing something, both wires, including the house ground which is fixed and must stay intact, have to go through the "hole" before it is tightened up, so the split bolt connector appears would not work for this application of connecting the end of an antenna ground wire to an in use bare copper house ground wire.
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post #47 of 93 Old 09-30-2018, 09:34 PM
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Your conclusion is not correct, Bud. The split bolt was designed for the job. When you remove the nut, you have an open "U" that slips over the house ground wire. OK?





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post #48 of 93 Old 10-02-2018, 03:49 AM - Thread Starter
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Your conclusion is not correct, Bud. The split bolt was designed for the job. When you remove the nut, you have an open "U" that slips over the house ground wire. OK?





Thanks for the information - I picked up two split bolt connectors yesterday and will use them later this week.

I still tried to find the (supposedly) common device that you often see attached to the ground wire close to your ground post, but never did find one.

Last edited by budh9534; 11-23-2018 at 07:24 AM.
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post #49 of 93 Old 10-02-2018, 03:56 AM - Thread Starter
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^^Good reception report. And those Channel Plus splitters are good in reverse as signal combiners, so the Winegard coupler may not be necessary. As for the TCL TV, you will just have to deal with the PSIP issue for 57.1. If you ever change to Samsung or another brand, you will not have that issue. I used to receive 2 channels labeled 9.1, but one was RF34 and the other RF30 translator. They eventually changed the translator PSIP to 9.9. So Samsung will allow 2 of the same virtual channel numbers although the real channel may be different.
Possible workarounds for the TCL TV tuner giving me displayed channel 57.1 Daystar in Chicago instead of the preferred 57.1 WBND-ABC in South Bend.

Unplug the preamplifier and see if you can get all the channels you want. Perhaps you get lucky and the channel you want is the one now listed on a re-scan.

Another possibility is for me to move my Chicago pointing antenna significantly away from the 266 degrees magnetic direction, so the 57.1 Daystar (low power) is no longer picked up on a re-scan but the other Chicago stations still get picked up at a lower signal strength - then put the Chicago antenna back to the original position.

I expect to try both of these workarounds to rid myself of Daystar!
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
(Edit 23 November 2018 - another option I could have used is adding an attenuator near the downlead connection to the TV to reduce the overall signal. I have a 6 dB attenuator and using that likely would have worked in eliminating the low signal 57.1 Daystar and there's a good chance all the other stations would have remained intact when I re-scanned. The virtual 34.3 WBND ABC 57 would likely have shown up in tje correct virtual 57.1 position after re-scan.)

Last edited by budh9534; 11-23-2018 at 07:38 AM.
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post #50 of 93 Old 10-11-2018, 09:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Waterproofing improvement needed on Channel Plus 2532

Final installation complete. However, I should have done a better job of waterproofing the Channel Plus 2532 combiner as it is the Achilles heel of two antenna system, especially the two inputs to the top of the combiner.

I used

Dow Corning 4 Electrical Insulating Compound 5.3 Oz (150 g) Tube
Scotch Super 33+ Vinyl Electrical Tape, 3/4 in x 66 ft
3M Linerless Electrical Rubber Tape.75-Inch by 15-Foot

to waterproof the output and only ONE of the inputs - the other input I couldn't conveniently waterproof it inside the house since the higher of the two antennas was not easily movable and I was going to waterproof it up on the roof. But for some reason, a few days after waterproofing the output and one input, the electrical rubber tape no longer would stick properly when I tried to use it while I was on the roof. I ended up putting some duct tape to try protecting it, but wasn't happy about that.

Anyone had trouble using these tapes while outside? It worked fine inside the day I used it for the first time.

I did use the dielectric compound on all connections - hopefully that will help prevent a problem, at least through this winter.

I won't be surprised if I purchase another 2532 combiner in the future with three coaxial cables and concentrate on waterproofing all three connections before installing all of that in place of what I have now. But for the moment, it is working very well with 80 total channels (29 near South Bend, 51 near Chicago).

One other item of success. I did disconnect the Chicago antenna and made small directional adjustments to the South Bend antenna until I had maximized the 57.1 WBND ABC South Bend channel. Then I re-connected the Chicago antenna but pointed it toward the northwest instead of west, then re-scanned for channels. The religious Chicago area Daystar 57.1 did not appear and WBND was where it should have been along with the associated subchannels 57.2 and 57.3. Then I rotated the Chicago antenna back to maximize the Chicago signals.

The list of 80 channels I am receiving along with other information, including signal strength, is included in a picture with this post..

Again, thanks for assistance of posters in this forum and if there are any suggestions on the waterproofing, I'd love to hear comments.

Bud
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post #51 of 93 Old 10-12-2018, 08:29 AM
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Thank you for the interesting photos, Bud









Quote:
Again, thanks for assistance of posters in this forum and if there are any suggestions on the waterproofing, I'd love to hear comments.
You are fighting a battle with Mother Nature, and losing. I suggest a weatherproof enclosure for the combiner with the leads coming out the bottom as they do with the preamp.

It doesn't need to be, and shouldn't be, a hermetically sealed enclosure. It needs to breathe to drain any buildup of condensation. Preamps that are in an enclosure have a weep hole at the bottom to drain condensation.

The Antennas Direct UHF/VHF combiner is in a weatherproof enclosure with the leads at the bottom, but the UVSJ has all three connectors at the bottom. Your combiner doesn't; it should have the single out at the top and the two in at the bottom. You could use a right angle adapter at the top (which adds another connection to cause trouble) or allow enough room above the combiner for a gentle curve in the coax.

There is a minimum bending radius for coax; any smaller, and the center conductor will migrate through the foam dielectric and touch the shield. This especially true with a center conductor that is copper clad steel instead of solid copper.
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Last edited by rabbit73; 10-12-2018 at 09:33 AM.
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post #52 of 93 Old 10-12-2018, 02:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Combiners - waterproofed and easily mountable

Quote:
Originally Posted by rabbit73 View Post
Thank you for the interesting photos, Bud









You are fighting a battle with Mother Nature, and losing. I suggest a weatherproof enclosure for the combiner with the leads coming out the bottom as they do with the preamp.

It doesn't need to be, and shouldn't be, a hermetically sealed enclosure. It needs to breathe to drain any buildup of condensation. Preamps that are in an enclosure have a weep hole at the bottom to drain condensation.

The Antennas Direct UHF/VHF combiner is in a weatherproof enclosure with the leads at the bottom, but the UVSJ has all three connectors at the bottom. Your combiner doesn't; it should have the single out at the top and the two in at the bottom. You could use a right angle adapter at the top (which adds another connection to cause trouble) or allow enough room above the combiner for a gentle curve in the coax.

There is a minimum bending radius for coax; any smaller, and the center conductor will migrate through the foam dielectric and touch the shield. This especially true with a center conductor that is copper clad steel instead of solid copper.
Thanks for the information!

I looked at the Antenna Direct Diplexer. However, the inputs are for a UHF antenna and a VHF antenna.

I need to combine the signals of two identical UHF antennas. Otherwise, I would have grabbed this baby quickly for this application. Especially because of being able to efficiently attach it to the mast and the weatherproofing with all attachments for coaxial cable on the bottom.

Too bad they don't make one for two UHF inputs.

This isn't the only combiner with this issue. A large number of them I was considering had a UHF or UHF/VHF input - and the second input was VHF, which disqualified it for my purposes.

The three I looked at:

$7, CHANNEL PLUS 2532 2-Way Splitter/Combiner CHANNEL PLUS 2532 (IN USE)
$22, Winegard CC-7870 Antenna Coupler (I did use this, but sent it back when the 2532 worked as well)

$40, Channel Master CM-0500 JOINtenna TV Antenna Combiner

I might have kept the CC-7870, since all the connections were on the bottom (better to keep water from getting in), but it had a horrible method of attachment to the mast. With the present situation, perhaps I will get another CC-7870 and find some makeshift method with brackets and/or tiewraps to attach it to the mast.

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post #53 of 93 Old 10-12-2018, 05:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by budh9534 View Post
I looked at the Antenna Direct Diplexer. However, the inputs are for a UHF antenna and a VHF antenna.

I need to combine the signals of two identical UHF antennas. Otherwise, I would have grabbed this baby quickly for this application. Especially because of being able to efficiently attach it to the mast and the weatherproofing with all attachments for coaxial cable on the bottom.
Yes, of course; the Antennas Direct UVSJ is not the correct combiner for you. I was just trying to show you other ways to protect your combiner from the weather, but I obviously didn't make that clear.

If you can not measure it, you can not improve it.
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For what you're trying to do, any common two port splitter would suffice. It's very unlikely that any one of them will do better than any of the others. You've just been looking at marketing claims.



Get one of these (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-1...-CTN/100197880) and a blank cover. Put your reversed splitter in it, feed the cables in from the bottom and attach it to your mast by whatever creative means yo happen upon.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ProjectSHO89 View Post
For what you're trying to do, any common two port splitter would suffice. It's very unlikely that any one of them will do better than any of the others. You've just been looking at marketing claims.

Get one of these (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-1...-CTN/100197880) and a blank cover. Put your reversed splitter in it, feed the cables in from the bottom and attach it to your mast by whatever creative means yo happen upon.
Sounds like a great idea in theory. Unfortunately, your standard splitter/combiner has two connections on one end and one on the other. At least one RG-6 cable is going to be entering the bottom of the box and need to connect near the top of the inside of the box. With a box that small and the allowed radius of curvature allowed to be used with RG-6, that appears to be the problem, at least in using this specific device you referenced. 3 1/4" x 1 7/8" interior dimension (approximately) for that box.

Perhaps a larger one might work? Type 2FSE has a 32 cubic inch interior with useful interior dimensions of approximately 3 inch x 4 inch. About $6 at Lowe's: http://www.lowes.com/pd/CARLON-1-2-...sition/3127789

Attaching to the mast with those four tiny tabs (one in each corner) will likely be a challenge, but one worth trying.

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You have two choices: find an enclosure large enough for your combiner of choice without sharp coax bends, or continue to replace combiners and wrap the connectors, perhaps with Coax Seal which molds in place.

Coax Seal is hard to remove. Some users put a turn of electrical tape down first; sticky side out, then a turn of sticky side down, then the Coax Seal. The Coax Seal should extend beyond the tape.

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post #57 of 93 Old 10-14-2018, 04:35 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by budh9534 View Post
Sounds like a great idea in theory. Unfortunately, your standard splitter/combiner has two connections on one end and one on the other. At least one RG-6 cable is going to be entering the bottom of the box and need to connect near the top of the inside of the box. With a box that small and the allowed radius of curvature allowed to be used with RG-6, that appears to be the problem, at least in using this specific device you referenced. 3 1/4" x 1 7/8" interior dimension (approximately) for that box.

Perhaps a larger one might work? Type 2FSE has a 32 cubic inch interior with useful interior dimensions of approximately 3 inch x 4 inch. About $6 at Lowe's: http://www.lowes.com/pd/CARLON-1-2-...sition/3127789

Attaching to the mast with those four tiny tabs (one in each corner) will likely be a challenge, but one worth trying.
The 32 cubic inch box didn't work. I picked one up with a cover plate for about $11 and found the interior dimensions (a square less than 4 inches on each side) wasn't going to cut it. A 6 inch square would have been plenty.

I ordered up from Amazon for about $21 a CableGuard CG-500 Coax Demarcation Enclosure (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

which has interior dimensions of 7" x 5.75" x 2" which should be plenty to deal with bending the RG-6 to make the connections to the Channel Plus 2532. The tough part may be finding a method to attach it to the antenna mast, but looking at the pictures, I think I found a method to use.

I'm starting to think going back to using the Winegard CC-7870 combiner with all connections at the bottom similar to the RCA preamp might be just as good - and less expensive.

I also was considering using only the $80 Televes 536041 Pre-Amplifier & Combiner with 3 inputs (2 UHFs, plus a VHF that I wouldn't be using) (http://www.solidsignal.com/pview.asp?p=536041) to replace both the RCA preamp and the combiner (2532 or CC-7870) that I was using. (They also make a 536041 version with a UHF input and a UHF/VHF input, which might also work with my two HDB91X UHF/VHF Yagi antennas.) I admit using it scares me a bit with the connections made to it using a stripped coaxial center conductor instead of an F-connector. Plus I can't find any information on how this has worked for other people. I do realize now that I could take a few feet of coax with F-connectors on both ends, cut one F-connector off and strip it to the center conductor to attach to the Televes, and use a female/female connector on the other end to connect to the down lead.

If I had known what I know now, including knowledge of the Televes option, I would probably use it. I still may spend (waste?) the money on the Televes since it appears like an excellent weatherproof option, especially if i can find a few others that have used it successfully.

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post #58 of 93 Old 10-14-2018, 09:47 AM
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I think that Televes preamp the cable connection is a bit complicated as the coax may have to be stripped to connect to the amplifier. I don't think there is a normal coax connector. The stripping must be precisely done or the signal may be blocked. So I would keep the RCA if you need dual input. Otherwise I like Channel Master Amplify $69 or Winegard LNA200. And there is a new dual input version from Channel Master, the Amplify Plus Pro Grade version, but it is a bit pricey at $99.
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post #59 of 93 Old 10-24-2018, 07:41 PM - Thread Starter
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6 feet of 1.5 inch conduit

Would a 10-foot 1.5-inch diameter electrical conduit being used with a 4-foot high tripod (with three support points) be able to support two Yagi HDB91X antennas in 40 to 50 mph winds? (There is effectively 6 feet of unsupported conduit above the tripod highest support point.)


I'm considering using the 10-foot conduit instead of an 8-foot 1.625-inch fence post because I get clearly better South Bend reception with that 2 extra feet of height.
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post #60 of 93 Old 10-29-2018, 07:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Ooops - forgot to fully secure mast

Yesterday, while making some final antenna directional adjustments, I had the tripod bolts only hand tight holding the mast. Then I had a phone call and forgot I had not left the mast fully secured. Of course, we had some strong winds last night. I worked night shift and when I returned home, I found my upper (South Bend) antenna pointing nearly 180 degrees out and entangled in tree branches and a bird nest!

Fortunately, despite several antenna "fins" being severely bent, everything was returned to normal.
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